At The Chocolate Explorers Club, we’re committed to bringing you behind the scenes of the world’s finest chocolate. For our inaugural Meet the Expert event, we welcomed Dan O’Doherty – a respected cacao fermentation specialist whose hands-on approach has improved post-harvest processing at cacao farms around the globe. From a background in marine biology to becoming a key figure in cacao cultivation, Dan shared insights on creating distinctive flavors and building sustainable relationships with cacao-growing communities. Join us as we uncover the fascinating world of cacao through Dan’s eyes and taste buds.
Dan O’Doherty’s journey into chocolate wasn’t planned. While completing his master’s in marine biology at the University of Hawaii, a chance encounter with a lone cacao tree in the botany department’s courtyard sparked his curiosity. This serendipitous moment led to an opportunity to work with tropical agriculture researchers, where his talent for grafting cacao trees opened doors to a completely new career path.
“I absolutely had no plan to be in cacao or chocolate as of 12-13 years ago,” Dan shared with our members. What began as a research position soon evolved into a deep fascination with this complex crop.
The pivotal moment came during a visit to a commercial cacao orchard at peak harvest.
“You’re in this dark canopy under the trees, and it’s lit up like Christmas – every single color and shape,” Dan recalled. “I thought, ‘Wow, this is a really unusual tree,’ and started digging into it.”
He quickly realized how little was known about cacao compared to other agricultural crops. “It’s easily a couple hundred years behind everything else,” he explained. “You could work your whole life and still have endless questions.” This vastness of unexplored territory, combined with the tangible nature of growing and processing cacao, created the perfect intersection of science and craft for Dan’s curious mind.
Dan’s expertise lies in unlocking the flavor potential hidden within each cacao bean. Throughout our tasting session, he highlighted three critical elements that influence chocolate’s final character: genetics, post-harvest processing, and climate.
Unlike wine grapes with their clearly defined varieties, cacao trees are predominantly grown from seedlings, resulting in what Dan describes as “mutt dogs” of the plant world. Each population tends to lean toward certain genetic backgrounds – whether Amelonado, Trinitario, or Criollo – but pure varieties are increasingly rare.
This genetic diversity creates both challenges and opportunities. In Dan’s work with Maui Ku’ia, he’s selectively bred trees incorporating Criollo genetics, not for prestige but for practical reasons: “Many Criollo trees tend to be small and compact, and they contribute nice round, large seeds to their progeny.”
His current project in Vanuatu stands out for its genetic uniqueness – an isolated pocket of pure Amelonado cacao, the same variety that historically defined West African chocolate before hybridization changed the region’s flavor profile.
“Gary Guittard, whose family has been making chocolate for five generations, says the flavor of West Africa from when he was a kid has been lost,” Dan explained. “Finding an area that could produce container loads of legitimately heirloom cacao was exciting.”
While genetics provide the foundation, Dan emphasized that post-harvest processing – particularly fermentation and drying – often makes the most significant difference in flavor quality.
“I’ve seen many origins that didn’t taste very good at all, where it was hard to see if there was potential. But when carefully processed, some are really amazing,” he shared, recounting how he helped transform beans from Costa Rica from “one of the worst cacaos to one of the best.”
The fermentation process begins the moment cacao pods are harvested. Dan pointed out that seemingly minor details create substantial differences in quality and flavor, such as:
Dan approaches fermentation with scientific precision while respecting its natural rhythm.
“My job in fermentation is not to push it where I want it to go, but rather to foster and help it along.”
Perhaps the most overlooked aspect of flavor development is proper drying.
“The importance of drying is often overlooked – it’s equal or very close to equal to fermentation,” Dan emphasized.
While many crops are dried simply to prevent spoilage, cacao drying continues the chemical transformations begun during fermentation. “If you measure the temperature of beans in a drying rack in the sun, it’s often the same as during fermentation – around 120°F. With that water, you’re still getting ongoing chemical reactions developing flavor.”
This process serves two crucial functions: allowing acetic acid to volatilize, reducing harshness, and continuing the internal transformations that develop complex flavors. In Hawaii, Dan discovered that proper aging after drying is essential – typically 3 months in breathable containers before final grading, blending, and packaging.
Climate and growing conditions form the third pillar of flavor development. Dan noted that stress often leads to more concentrated flavors – similar to wine grapes.
“In Maui, it’s incredibly dry – in Lahaina, we get 10-12 inches of rain in a good year. So far this winter season, I’ve only had 0.8 inches,” he shared. “It seems that the stress of drylands, even with irrigation, tends to make a more concentrated flavor profile.”
This environmental influence creates distinct regional characteristics. His Maui Ku’ia chocolate displays intense tropical fruit notes partly due to “the stress, heat, and long days on our west-facing location – we get roasted until sunset.”
Our members had the pleasure of exploring five distinctive chocolates with Dan’s guidance, each representing a different facet of his work around the world.
The tasting began with a chocolate made by Sirene Chocolate with beans Dan sourced from a remote village in Vanuatu. Working with a local chocolatier named Olivier, Dan helped connect this community’s pure Amelonado cacao with North American chocolate makers.
Members described the bar using terms like “intense,” “smooth,” “long,” and “chocolatey” – precisely the classic dark chocolate profile Dan predicted would appeal to those seeking more traditional flavors rather than fruity acidity.
“I’ve never brought in a new origin that sold out within weeks until this Vanuatu,” Dan noted. “Everyone who got samples said, ‘Wow, this is clean, powerful, classic dark chocolate.'”
From Colombia’s high Andes, this chocolate made by Goodnow Farms showcased classic Trinitario cacao grown at elevations between 3,000-4,000 feet. Dan helped develop the fermentation protocol for these farmers who had previously never fermented their cacao.
The bar displayed subtle notes of banana and walnut with a pleasant astringency that several members likened to the sensation of walnut skins. “It’s not super deep chocolate – it’s a little softer compared to the Pinalum,” Dan observed.
This Hawaiian-grown cacao represents a collaboration between Dan and Dylan Butterbaugh of Manoa Chocolate on Oahu. The distinctive lighter color reflects the Criollo influence in Dan’s breeding program, producing beans that are white or lavender rather than purple-brown.
Grown in a unique micro-climate that’s “sheltered from the trade winds, very hot and dry like Lahaina in the summer, but cool and wet in the winter,” this chocolate demonstrates how genetics interact with environment to create a profile distinct from other Hawaiian chocolates.
The star of our collection came from Dan’s primary workplace, where he serves as Vice President of Farm and Factory Operations. This vertically integrated operation allows him complete control from tree to bar.
Members detected vibrant tropical notes of papaya and guava in this distinctive chocolate. Dan attributes this intensity to his meticulous approach to each step of production – from tailored fermentation protocols that change with the seasons to careful grading and blending of each harvest.
“At the end of the season, after aging, I take a sub-sample from every single box, which are kept separate. I make an A and a B grade – the B gets roasted harder and made into milk chocolate, while the A is the really special stuff,” he explained.
This attention to detail extends to roasting, where Dan personally handles every batch: “We have a nice Diedrich roaster that can save temperature logs and profiles, so we do alpha and beta roasts, then decide which direction to go.”
Our tasting concluded with two flavored bars that showcase how Maui Ku’ia balances artisan techniques with commercial appeal. The mango bar incorporates spray-dried powder from local Mapulehu mangoes – a variety so delicate “you won’t see it at markets because it’s so soft and fiberless that if you put it in a bucket with other mangoes, they’ll all be bruised.”
The blood orange bar uses essential oil for a bright citrus flavor that complements a milder chocolate base. While Dan describes himself as “the purist when it comes to chocolate,” these infusions represent an important market reality: “The demographic of real chocolate lovers like it plain, and maybe leaning dark. But the average consumer prefers infusions.”
Throughout our conversation, Dan’s approach to sourcing emerged as both ethical and practical. Rather than making brief visits to cacao-growing regions, he establishes deep connections by staying for weeks at a time, working alongside farmers in the field.
“I think that’s the difference in how I source cacao compared to others – I have a different perspective because I’m a grower and processor myself. I don’t just make diplomatic visits; I’m turning boxes myself, crouching in the mud, breaking pods.”
This hands-on approach builds trust with farming communities.
“To build trust, you need to get involved. Many consultants before me would show up in villages wearing penny loafers and khakis saying, ‘You should do it like this.’ But being able to swing a machete well and break pods gets you street cred.”
His work with Maui Ku’ia demonstrates another dimension of sustainability – their business model directs 100% of profits to local nonprofit organizations serving Maui Nui (encompassing Maui, Molokai, and Lanai). This commitment to community supports Dan’s vision of chocolate as a means to connect people across continents.
As our evening with Dan concluded, members reflected on their favorite chocolates from the tasting. The responses were remarkably balanced between Goodnow Farms, Manoa, and Maui Ku’ia – a testament to the diverse preferences within our community of chocolate enthusiasts.
What emerged clearly was Dan’s belief that we’re only beginning to unlock cacao’s potential. His current research, including multi-location trials with the University of Hawaii using identical cacao genetics in different micro-climates, promises to deepen our understanding of how environment shapes flavor.
For chocolate lovers seeking to refine their palates, Dan offered this insight: taste is deeply personal, reflecting individual memories and experiences. While some may gravitate toward bright, fruity acidity, others seek the comforting embrace of traditional chocolate notes. The beauty lies in this diversity – both in the cacao itself and in our appreciation of it.
Join us next month as The Chocolate Explorers Club continues our journey through the world of fine chocolate. Visit our website to become a member and receive thoughtfully curated selections from artisans who are redefining what chocolate can be.
Dan O’Doherty’s work spans continents through his consulting company Cacao Services, his partnership with Manoa Chocolate on Kama’aina Nui, and his leadership role at Maui Kuilla. Visitors to Maui can tour the Maui Kuilla factory to witness this fascinating process firsthand.
